Boy in the World

Living abroad during a world pandemic sounds pretty gruelling. A few months into settling down, I wondered if this whole idea had started to backfire.

With a world pandemic, all of Europe was locked down. I was soon inside a large white tent in the middle of my local park, receiving vaccination shots in the arm from unfamiliar people with foreign voices and faces covered by masks.

But human beings are "self-transforming" creatures. With every problem, there is an opportunity. It's kind of our thing.

I soon realised that I had Europe to myself. I had a chance to travelogue and self reflect - what the Germans call a Fundierung - a "founding".

To go back to the start, I moved to Munich, Germany, in 2018 with my partner. For all the obvious reasons, it's quite the place.

Throughout the medieval period, it was residence to Wittelsbachs, civil war in the city from 1397–1398, capital of all Bavaria in 1505, home to several art movements and schools. At one point, the Communist Bavarian Soviet Republic, the beer capital of Europe, was the closest German ally of France in its struggle against Austria and the city where the National Socialist party cradled their evil crusade.

So, there's no doubt about it. Munich is a city that visibly reflects the historical barriers and boundaries, and opportunities civilisations encounter.

Munich is a city that has reemerged from oblivion. It's something I am continuously reminded of on every city walk, coffee grab and dog walk. There is a continuous sense of awe when walking through the streets and corridors of history.

No seriously.

There's more than meets the eye. At one point, you are walking past St. Michael's Jesuit church, the largest Renaissance church north of the Alps. Through Thalkirchner Strasse up to the district of Sendling, where you will find the Alter Israelitischer Friedhof, an old Jewish cemetery then you come to Westenrieder Strasse, two of the most important Jewish spaces in Munich. Not before long, you will be walking alongside the ancient Isar River, which is usually filled with students and families every summer.

Today, the city is home to international financial services and private investment firms. Also, there are prestigious law courts, where both Apple and Amazon regularly duel for patents, as well as large corporations and hard-hitting automotive and scientific industrial companies.

A combination of conditions makes Munich particularly attractive for civilians, refugees, businesses and students.

Those who seek to live in Munich have the right to unlimited stay, alongside permission to work, access to social services, integration subsidies, and the possibility of becoming a German citizen after seven years. Pretty damn good.

The geographical position of Munich plays another critical role.

It sits at a crossroads between north and southern Europe. Munich's central train station is an excellent place to people watch, with millions of visitors travelling to and from the city from across Europe.

I was able to survey the map for weekend trips and holidays during the first lockdown. My partner and I decided to lease a car, and soon we were on the road.

Where to begin?

For quick wins, the Bavarian countryside is worth exploring.

Particularly in the early spring, with snow unmoving in the northern Alps and sunny blue skies illuminating the Swabian communities of Krumbach-Hürben and Ichenhausen and Franconian towns as Fürth. Likewise, the Allgäu region is breathtaking.

When it comes to more exhausting hikes, my favourite locations have been the Murnauer Moos, Geroldsee, Herzogstand and Lenggries. All of which are perfect for hiking with the dog whilst drinking beer and scoffing a sandwich.

Bavaria is also known for its abbeys, of which I have explored my fair share. Metten Abbey is quite something, and Ottobeuren Abbey, is one of the 40 self-ruling imperial abbeys of the old Holy Roman Empire. Michaelsberg Abbey is another site I visited in Bamberg. The list goes on.

The bishropic sites of Tegernsee, Starnberg, Weihenstephan, and Schäftlarn are also great for hilly hikes.

Last year we were fortunate to have two epic road trips.

First, we decided to drive from Munich to Tuscany for two weeks. Before reaching our destination in Poggibonsi, the drive was roughly 9 hours of spectacular views of the Dolomites, magnific rivers and springs, Lombard and Umbria.

The second road trip was from Munich to the south of England. Quite the journey but so worth it. We extend our trip over two days, driving through Karlsruhe onto the eastern French city of Metz, where we spent the night before heading towards Verdun. Off we went, tired but thrilled by the sights and sounds. We spent a few hours in Reims before the last leg of the trip toward Calais.

The year before that, we drove to Croatia, staying in the coastal region of Opatija, not far from Rijeka. As amateur medievalists, we spent one or two days exploring the medieval hilltops of Istria, in particular, Motovun, with the most outstanding views, great cuisine and some very old ancient doors.